Monday, May 11, 2009

Kentucky Derby Trifecta: Hot Browns, Mint Juleps, and My Old Kentucky Home

If you're not from Kentucky and/or don't give a damn about horse racing, the first Saturday in May probably means nothing to you. However, for Kentuckians, this day marks a time-honored event more sacred than holy communion, more celebrated than Christmas, and more anticipated than your 21st birthday:

Derby.

This is a special time of year when Louisvillians set aside their differences and come together in a collective consciousness of gut-splitting, joyful debauchery that can only be achieved via the delicate balance of horse race handicapping, gaudy hats, and bourbon-induced headaches. As I've mentioned before, I'm from Louisville, and so am one of the blessed ones who knows the true level of exorbitant bliss spewing from all corners of the city during Derby. And I get to scoff at the rest of the quiet, unknowing world for missing out. Sad for you.


This can actually be seen in billboard form around Louisville during Derby season.

Anyway, onto gastronomy. Derby Day is one of the only times, like ever, I wish I was somewhere other than Portland, so I (obviously) start to seep nostalgia from my pores when it comes around and I force my friends to choke down as much bourbon as possible and eat my Kentucky food. When I start to wax philosophic about the sacrosanctity of true Kentucky cuisine, the obvious thing that comes to mind is the Hot Brown. If you don't know what I'm talking about, the Hot Brown is a dish created by the chef at the famous Brown Hotel in Louisville back in the 1920s. It's called an open-faced turkey sandwich, but most Hot Browns you come across in Louisville are more of a bubbly, cheesy explosion than anything resembling a sandwich. The true origin and recipe can be found on the Brown Hotel's website. The other thing about the Hot Brown is that, save for the Brown Hotel's original recipe, everyone has their own version of it. So, being from Louisville, I say that a true Kentucky Hot Brown is the one you decide to make yourself after having sampled them in at least 5 different Louisville eateries. Oh, and it has to have criss-crossed bacon strips on top.

OK, so that's a little bit lax. To be a Hot Brown, you must have bread, turkey, Mornay sauce, bacon, and a broiler. Then you can get creative. My recipe was a combination of the Brown, another legendary Louisville hot spot called Lynn's Paradise Cafe, and my own personal Kentucky elitism. Lynn's is known for it's exorbitant portions and over-the-top, well, everything, so of course they make a good, gut-busting Hot Brown.

Here's my recipe:
-thick slices of sourdough bread
-sliced roast turkey (or deli turkey, if that's all you can get)
-sharp cheddar Mornay sauce (recipe below)
-peppered bacon strips
-grated Parm
-sliced tomatoes

Sharp Cheddar Mornay Sauce:
A Mornay sauce is essentially a classic béchamel with melted cheese in it. So, make a roux of equal parts flour and butter, then add 3 cups of 2% milk and stir to thicken. To that, add a large handful of grated sharp white cheddar cheese and a smaller handful of grated Parm. (I can't remember the exact measurements of the cheese, so just keep tasting it.) Season with S&P, a pinch of nutmeg, and cayenne pepper to taste.

Assembly:
Place slices of bread on a baking sheet or in a baking dish, top with a hefty portion of turkey, then completely smother it with Mornay sauce. Place a few tomato slices in the dish/pan as well. Top "sandwich" with some more grated Parm and place under a broiler until the sauce is slightly browned and bubbling over with gooey, oily extravagance. Remove from broiler and top with crossed slices of crisp bacon, sprinkle with more Parm and chopped parsley, and serve with tomatoes on the side.

This is a knife-and-fork sangwich, y'all.

Now, drinks! You can't experience Derby without a mint julep, so I'm here to tell you how to make it the right way.

Derby Mint Julep:
-Early Times Kentucky bourbon (the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby)
-mint-infused simple syrup
-crushed ice
-tall, thin glasses
-fresh mint sprigs

Make your simple syrup (boil 1.5-2 parts sugar to 1 part water until sugar dissolves), then add mint leaves and allow to cool for at least an hour or overnight. Fill your glass with crushed ice, pretty much to the top. Cubed will not do. Pour in about a shot of bourbon, top with mint syrup, and throw in some mint leaves. Now...this part is important...vigorously stir and rile up the entire cocktail until the outside of the glass gets icy from the condensation. Add a nice, big mint sprig and serve immediately. This is exactly how they're served at the Derby, so you know it's the right way.

Now you can have a kick ass Derby party and your friends will think you're authentic. And if you want to be like a real Louisvillian, try to be pretty drunk by the actual running of the Derby so you can stand in your living room and sing "My Old Kentucky Home" without feeling self-conscious. Other things you can say/yell to appear authentic:

-I think I left my hat at the Oaks.
-My exacta box was off by one damn horse!
-Did we make out at O'Shea's last night?
-Man, now Derby is so far away...
-Go baby go!!!!!

Complete the trifecta with Jerry Garcia Band's "Run for the Roses."

P.S. I apologize that there are no real Ameliorated health properties to these recipes, but I might remind you that the endorphins released during times of pleasure contribute to mental and physical well-being, and so, it's important to let loose every now and then. So go and ahead and do it up for Derby. For your health.

No comments:

Post a Comment